All are welcome to join monthly the Lap Quilting club! Club meetings now will be held at Jenny’s Sewing Studio 1030 South Schumaker Dr. Salisbury, MD. Please register by following the enrollment link. The fee is only $5.00 per meeting.
Upcoming Club meetings for 2019 will be November 21st ( 3rd Thursday because of Thanksgiving) and December 19th (3rd Thursday because of Christmas). Time for club is 2:00 pm. The clubs are scheduled every 4th Thursday of the month and the sessions are about 2 hours. Each session will introduce techniques to help you piece a traditional sampler Lap Quilt. The quilt size you decide to make is up to you. “Show and Tell” will be held at the beginning of each meeting so you can share your sewn blocks and fabric choices and questions with the group. Here is the revised Club outline.
Here is a link to the power point presentation of the lap quilt club by lesson. If you click on the lesson window the power point presentation window will allow you to click on the 4 outward arrows at the bottom of the screen. In a new screen you can choose start slide show. You can hit esc to escape the screen.
On November 21st the group will start assembly of the Lap Quilt. Quilters will need at least 2 finished 18 1/2″ blocks that have been bordered and quilted. Make sure the borders have at least 1″ free at the edge so the blocks can be joined. Bring scissors and regular straight pins. You will be using your regular presser foot or your 1/4″ foot when sewing the blocks together. You do not have to have all the blocks finished to attend this session. You can continue to add as many blocks as you need to complete the size of quilt you need.
On October 31st we pieced the Kings Cross block on page 15. For the session cut fabrics for the block using your templates. You will need 3 different fabrics for contrast. The book calls for Triangle H 8 print pieces and Trapezoid A 4 light and 4 dark. If you have the fabric, cut 2 of this block and we will play with the layout. Please do not sew the block templates before class, thanks!
Our September 26th the Lap Quilt meeting was devoted to the “House on the Hill” block. Here are some notes about the House block to keep in mind. Always do a sample 1/4″ seam and measure it before you begin construction of the block. This block requires exact cutting of the template pieces and exact 1/4″ seams. If you do not do this first step you will be ripping seams apart.
Make a copy of the block and print it off for notes and placement of the fabrics in the layout. Mark the block drawing with the template letters. I suggest you color in the squares to get an idea of fabric placement. Draw the templates on the fabric for cutting. Mark each piece on the wrong side with the template number. When you cut the fabrics, lay the block out on the table in front of you. I used a piece of warm and natural on a piece of foam core board to create a layout board. The warm and natural cotton batting will hold my pieces in place without pinning them.
Work the first row of squares by piecing the smaller C blocks together. Press the seams to one side. and them sew the B blocks to the C block chimneys to make the first strip. Use the bottom row or “grass” strip on the House block to check the finished width. If the top row does not match the bottom strip you will need to do a little ripping and restitching to adjust the chimneys.
The next row is the roof. Make sure you piece the triangle to the square edges with a 1/4″ dog-ear extending. Sew from the inside of the “V” to make the perfect 1/4″. Make sure your chimneys are inside the roof line when you complete this section.
The next row is the house. Start by piecing the window strip. Press. Sew the strips as laid out to create the door and the window and the house. The lower point of the roof lines up with the house seam.
Finally you have the grass to sew on the block to complete the “House on the Hill”. Use your 12 1/2″ ruler to mark and trim the finished size of the block.
On August 22nd we held our 8th meeting of the Lap Quilt club. This month the crazy quilt technique was covered. I gave all attending a monogram for the block center. Everyone also received a pattern to use as a center.
Here is a link to what the monograms look like. Yes, the script monograms are for sale if you want to buy the embroidery designs for your embroidery machine. To create a crazy quilt block you will need a few scraps plus a 14″ background muslin square (This square will not show, it is a base). Bring thread to match and contrast with your scraps. Bring your sewing machine and scissors. Since we will be in a closer area when sewing, mark all your supplies and minimize what you bring.
I am working on a 12 1/2″ block for my lap quilt, so I started my piecing by cutting a muslin background just a little bigger then my finished block. The finished block will be trimmed to the exact size later. I looked for fabric scraps that were from 4″ to 8″ wide and about 12 to 14 inches long.
Using a 14” muslin or solid center place the quilt block center monogram on the top side of the 14” square. Everyone also used the pattern to position and trace the center outline for the monogram. Rough cut the monogram shape ¼” larger then the monogram shape and pin the monogram in place on the top side of the square over the center placement. I recommend you stitch the center in place ¼” from the edges so it does not move.
Next step is to start adding scraps to the center edges. Place a scrap right sides together to a straight edge of the center. Sew the scrap using a ¼” seam. Open the scrap and press it flat to fill an area of the background. Trim the scrap to fit the area. Repeat this process to fill in the block with colorful scrap areas. Once you have filled the block turn the 14″ square to the wrong side. Measure a 12 1/2″ square. Sew the drawn line to hold the scraps in place. Trim the block to the finished size.
I have introduced flower pins. They lay flat so you can use a ruler or the iron easily without the bump that regular pins form. You do not have to worry about melting the pins.
You can decorate the seams after the block is sewn with decorative stitches.
In our July 25th meeting- I did a review of the 9 patch block and we worked on the log cabin block. The log Cabin is sewn rotating the block to add each strip. See the power point demo. Starting with the first dark, we placed the center square on the 1 1/2″ strip and sewed the center to the first dark on one side with a 1/4″ seam. I gave a few rules to follow. Always place the strip you are adding to the block face up on the machine. Place the last strip added to the block on the top of the strip ( right sides together) and sew the next 1/4″ seam. Press the piece from the right side and press the seam to the center. Using a rotary cutter, trim the added strip square with the block. Keep going, adding 2 dark strips ( same fabric) as you rotate the square and then 2 light. Keep turning and adding until you are at the last row. ( The finished block has a center G square (2 1/2″) and 5 dark and 5 light blocks (1 1/2″ X 45″ strips).) Before you sew the strips for the last row measure your block. A finished block 12 1/2″. If you are running short on the finished size of the block you will need to cut the 5th light and dark slightly larger to make the block work.
Looking forward to seeing you at the next Lap Quilt meeting on September 26th. Jenny
On July 25th Lesson 7 was the Log Cabin block. To prepare for this lesson here is the list of materials that were needed. You will need to use your rotary cutter and pre cut the strips as indicated below. Please wait until class to construct the Log Cabin block. Piecing on this block needs to be very accurate so the completed block measures 12 1/2″ when finished. I need you to bring extra fabric for the 5th light and the 5th dark strip in case we need to cut a wider strip. Your square up 12 1/2″ or 12″ ruler or template will really help you constructing this block.
Lesson 7 – Log Cabin
- Strips are cut from rectangle B which is 1 ½” wide and square G which is 2 ½”.
- I cut the center G square which is 2 ½” ( if you were making multiple block you would cut G in a 2 ½ “ strip X 45”)
- Cut strips across the width of the fabric 45” X 1 ½” wide for the sides. ( 5 dark strips and 5 light strips)
- Bring ¼” foot and the sewing machine.
- Bring a 12 ½” square up ruler
- Bring extra fabric in case you need it!
On June 27th we completed the Fan and the Dresden plate blocks and the 9 patch blocks ( Churn Dash, Shoo Fly, Ohio Star and Maple Leaf) were introduced.
If you did not attend the the 6 lesson on June 27th you missed a lot and we missed you. If you need help chancing up you can email me about an extra help session or enroll at: https://jennys-sewing-studio.com/product/21437/
Here are the class notes for June 27th. Watch the Power point demonstrations to help understand some of the lesson.
To finish the Dresden plate block I demoed how to apply a narrow edging lace to help turn the outside edge of the Dresden plate. The edge was then pressed under to shape the edge for the finishing stitches. Also demoed was the sewing of the center circle and the use of pinking shears to trim the circle. The ease of clipping the interfacing to turn the completed circle applique was also shown. The Dresden plate was then appliqued to the stabilized 12 1/2″ square using either the blanket stitch or a straight stitch next to the lace edging. The center circle was fused in place and the blanket stitch was used to hold the center circle in place.
To complete the fan block the wedge was sewn to the inside edge on the fan. This was the first demonstration of curved piecing. The regular presser foot was used. Next the outside edge of the fan was finished with piping. Wright’s 1/4″ maxi piping is easy to sew in place using a piping foot. The fan was then stitched to the 12 1/2″ stabilized square with a straight stitch along the edges. Decorative stitches can be added to the fan to create a beautiful block.
The 9 patch blocks were also demonstrated. The Shoo Fly, Churn Dash, Maple leaf, and Ohio star were discussed. These 9 patch blocks all used similar templates from the Lap Quilt book. Your 1st step is to refer to the Lap Quilting book, find the blocks and make the needed plastic templates. For each block I drew the template in multiples as needed on the wrong side of the fabric using a wash away marker and I labeled each triangle or rectangle or square with the template number and the block name. ( If I needed 8 light and 8 dark triangle “A” I drew 8 triangles on the wrong side of the light and pinned the light to the dark so I could sew all the triangle 1/4″ seams at one time. Please be accurate. This works for triangles and rectangles. Just make sure you look at the template edge that needs seaming.)( Lap Quilt book page 56).
These are the notes on how to prepare for the June 27th class:
Here are notes on how to prep for the 9 patch blocks. ( You will need all your plastic templates, bring a plastic ruler and a blue fabric marker or chalk. Make sure you refer to the Lap Quilt book. You will need at least 3 different contrasting fabrics for the 9 patch blocks. I recommend 5 different fabrics be used if you have them.)
For Churn Dash and Shoo Fly bring 2 contrasting fabrics pre-cut 11″ X 45″. For the Maple Leaf and the Ohio Star you will need to bring 2 other contrasting fabrics pre-cut 11″ X 45″. The Ohio Star will also need one “E” square cut for the center of a 5th fabric.
To finish the Dresden Plate and the Fan blocks:
I suggest you cut out the wedges for the Dresden and Fan blocks using the templates from the Lap Quilting book. You will want to use either 2 , 4 or 16 different prints to compliment the 12 1/2″ back ground block when planning the Dresden Plate. Using the power point presentation for Lesson 5, piece the fan and Dresden plate before class. Press the seams so they lay in one direction, I will give you suggestions and allow time for you to applique and do the centers for both blocks in class. I suggest you buy about a yard of “Totally Stable by Sulky” to stabilize the backgrounds. Purchase a light weight fusible interfacing. Below I have listed all your needs for the May 23rd class.
Bring your machine, thread, scissors, stabilizer, open toe or applique’ foot, pieced Fan and Dresden Plate to class with the pre-cut and stabilized background blocks ( as we did in the May lesson). You do not have to finish the Fan or the Dresden Plate blocks before class. Do not applique them yet! Bring any trims you would like. Please read the following detailed list and watch the power point presentation before class. Please double check your supplies before you come to class and make sure you have all your sewing machine feet with you. Also check to make sure you have all your fabrics and stabilizers with you!!!!
- Quilters will need to cut at least 2 – 12 1/2″ back ground blocks to prepare for the fan and Dresden Plate. You will also need to purchase about a yard of a sheer to lightweight fusible interfacing for your applique.
- Bring a black sharpie pen to trace the applique’.
- I will bring the Sun Bonnet pattern for every student. We are doing an applique Sun Bonnet, not the pieced pattern in the Lap Quilt Book.
- Purchase some “Totally Stable” fusible tear away stabilizer. You should be able to buy the stabilizer by the yard or in a package, it is made by Sulky. Make sure you purchase a lightweight stabilizer you can tear away. Fuse the stabilizer to the back of each 12 1/2 block as we did with the Sun Bonnet Sue block,
- Please bring black or dark brown or dark gray thread for the applique stitching. The color thread you pick depends on your quilt fabric colors .
- If you would like to introduce decorative stitches to your blocks for a special accent, gather a few colorful threads for your additional decorative stitches.
- For the Fan and the Dresden Plate you will also need a narrow lace edging, rick rack or some prepackaged 1/4″ maxi piping. I will be bringing a very limited supply of snap on piping feet to the class in June. If you want one please reserve it as I only have 3. I also have several adjustable zipper feet to sew on the piping. Click on links to see the feet. Both feet will help you get close to the piping as you stitch it.
- Bring your machine to the class threaded with a neutral to finish the centers of the Fan and Dresden Plate. Also bring the thread you will need to applique the Dresden and Fan blocks. I used black. If you have an applique foot, bring it. I will bring a few extra applique feet.
- Bring your 1/4″ foot and regular all-purpose sewing foot for your sewing machine.
- For the Fan cut the wedges and the 1/4 circle. ( If you need help sewing the fan or Dresden let me know ahead of class.) Sew the wedges 2 by 2, then put 2 wedges and 2 wedges together to form 4 and them sew the 2 sets of 4 together to form 8. Press the seams to one side. Wait for class to sew the 1/4 circle to the fan. I will show you some tricks.
- For the Dresden Plates pick 4 fabrics and make 4 sets of 4 wedges. Sew the 4 sets together to form 16 wedges. Press the seams to on side. Wait till class for me to show you some tips on the center circle. Watch the power point presentation for hints.
If you want to keep up with our Lap Quilting progress you will need to do some home work each month and this page documents the steps we have covered since January 2019. For hands on help, you can enroll for “one on one classes” with Jenny to catch up. Just email firstname.lastname@example.org for help and with your questions.
May 23rd was lesson five for our Lap Quilt club.
The lesson for May has been extended into June. In May we did the Sue Bonnet Sue applique and learned what stitch we had on our machine to do the blanket stitch applique. We will use the same stitch on the center on the Dresden Plate in June.
Our May class was on the Sun Bonnet Sue block. We used an interfacing technique to applique and to create the block.
I gave everyone a pattern for Sun Bonnet Sue. The first step was to trace the parts of the applique on the rough side of fusible interfacing using a sharpie marker. With rough side of interfacing to right side of the fabric, the next step was to stitch the applique piece with the straight stitch. Stitch was done on the drawn black line, overlapping at the beginning of the stitching to complete. Next the applique piece was turned. Some pieces required the sewer to cut a small slash in the interfacing then then turn the piece through the slash to the right side. I showed how trimming the applique with pinking shears on the curves will reduce bulk in the seam. The next step was to place the completed applique on a stabilized 12 1/2″ block. I used stitch and tear light weight stabilizer on the back of the 12 1/2″ block to keep the fabric from puckering when stitch the edges.
Most students used the blind hem at a 3 width and a fine stitch length to applique with. If you have an electronic machine you can use the blanket stitch. Test stitch to adjust the width and length of the stitch before you apply it to the block. Everyone was going to take the applique block home and continue to finish the applique. They can also apply and lace or trims they desire. I also used decorative stitch to complete my Sun Bonnet Sue block. Once you have completed the block you can tear off the stabilizer that was ironed to the back. Next apply the border to finish the block. Finally you can quilt the block and border.
Our April club meeting covered many styles of machine quilting. We practiced outline quilting with the walking foot, stippling, stencil outline free motion quilting and strip quilting. I demonstrated how to make and prepare the lap quilt sandwich of the top, batting and backing layer. Students will need to cut the backs and batting 18 1/2″ square. ( I suggest you cut all the backs and batting at one time). To baste the blocks we used quilter’s straight pins and a few medium safety pins. Everyone was able to test out stippling and walking foot quilting in class.
Once you learn to quilt the block in lesson 4, I suggest you make all the introduced blocks and quilt them. When we are finished with the blocks and ready for assembly, you while be able to lay out your blocks to see what placement you want and you will then be ready for assembly.
I introduced strip piecing ideas for a creative touch. I will be making a pillow cover to show how to strip piece.
Previously- Lesson 3
In our March 28th meeting we covered squaring up the block with your 12″ square. The back of each completed block was marked with the 1/4″ seam line. The borders are cut 3 1/2″ wide across the 45″ wide fabric. You will need 2 border strips per block. I cut each 45″ strip in half and pressed it in half again to fit the strip to one side of the marked block. The borders are then pieced to each side of the block by only sewing on the marked seam. Stop sewing at the marked corner. Each corner is then mitered by pressing the touching borders together. Press in a 45 degree angle. I pinned the two borders together and then marked the angle. I sewed the miter from the outside into the corner point, sewing, pressing, marking and trimming the mitered border. I made a large press board 24″ square with foam installation board and covered with quilted muslin to size my finished mitered square. The finished size of each bordered block is 18 1/2″.
There are several methods to mark the stencil on your border. I used a computer program to make 2 – 6″ x 2 1/2″ border stencils and taped them together to fit the 18″ finished block. Stencils should not be larger than 2 1/2″. Make sure to leave at least 1/2″ to 1″ free on each border so you can assemble the finished quilt blocks later. If you darken the printed stencil borders with a sharpie marker, you can see the drawing through the border fabric and mark it. Another consideration is how you are going to sew the quilting outline. Most designs will require free motion. Some designs can be quilted using the walking foot if there are a not a lot of turns. Designs with cutouts and centers are designed for hand sewing. The stencil design program is written by Electric quilt and enables you to size the design to fit your space. If you are using a grooved stencil you will need to plan out the placement of the stencils. Sometimes stencils need to be “stretched ” when drawing them to fit the border.
I also taught a new way to make a bow tie block in lesson 3. We used 3- “A” squares of one color and 2 “A” squares of another color. Here is a link to a serger demonstration I did years ago. Use the demonstration to jog your memory of how the block was created.
Homework: For lesson 4, you will need to complete the bow tie block, 4 patch block, double 4 patch block, pin wheel and rail fence block. Cut your 3 1/2″ borders and sew the borders to your blocks and miter the corners. Stencil your borders. Cut your 18 1/2″ batting and backing for all your blocks.
Please buy your border fabric before March 28th to be ready to sew. You will need 2 – 3 1/2″ X 45″ strips for each block. Use the rotary cutter to cut the border strips needed for your quilt. Wait until I demonstrate the mitered borders to sew and complete the blocks. It will save you time to be precise, so wait for the lesson.
You will also need a 12″ and a 6″ square ruler for squaring up the blocks. You can buy these rulers locally or at Amazon. You can also create one out of a heavy poster board. Depending on the color of your border will determine what you will be marking your block with. Bring your blocks and marking pencil to our March club meeting. Since the sewn border is only 3 ” finished, you will not need a stencil wider than 2 1/2″ to quilt. You can shop for a stencil to trace through or use a stencil from the book if your border is a light color. To make a plastic stencil you will need a stencil iron to cut the trough. I think it is easier to buy one. Consider a stencil with a corner and a stencil that is easy to stitch continuously. Refer to pages 68 to 76 of the Lap Quilt book.
Complete your 4 patch blocks ( 4 patch, double 4 patch, rail fence and pin wheel) before the next club session to keep up to date.
In our February club meeting we reviewed how make and mark templates and how to sew a 1/4″ seam. The 4 patch, double 4 patch, pin wheel and rail fence were also covered. Make sure you keep up to date with the block construction so you have blocks to border and stencil in the March lesson.
The rotary cutter and strip piecing with the rail fence block was also detailed in the February session. We also did the pin wheel block. templates A square, B square and E triangle were used.
You will need a least 3 colors of fabric to complete your blocks. I suggest you purchase Lap Quilting by Georgia Bonesteel. The book contains over 70 patchwork blocks with template patterns and will be your guide for making a Lap Quilt. Amazon.com has the book at a very reasonable price.
It does help me for students to register for each club session in advance. Enroll at the door by paying the instructor $5.00. To enroll in advance click this link.
All club meetings will be demonstration using the sewing machine with an overhead camera.
You can ask questions at each session and bring your work for any help needed.
All club fees will only be applied to the upcoming club. Enrollment date will show the session you are choosing. No carry over fees please. Need more help with your Lap Quilt ?
Make an appointment with Jenny and bring your sewing machine and materials and book to Jenny’s Sewing Studio at 1030 South Schumaker Dr. in Salisbury, MD for more help or to start the lap quilt and join our group you can schedule class by the hour. Here is a link to enroll.Place information on when you wish to attend in comments of the order or email for additional scheduling information. email@example.com
For an outline of the Lap Quilting monthly sessions you can click here. The content of the sessions can change slightly so check with Jenny to make sure your quilt block is being demonstrated and sewn.